I grew up by the beach. I love the ocean. We all say we love stuff all the time, but I really, really, really, really like it. There is something about each and every time I get in and catch some waves – it makes me happy. It’s the beauty of the ocean and that “wow” factor that gets me. I really believe that God created the world, and waves are just another way he tries to reveal himself to us.
A lot of times in nature, we are drawn to things like sunsets, waves, thunderstorms, mountains, lakes, rivers, waterfalls. We forget and become numb to the reality it is pointing to. See – I’m weird and I think about this stuff. Why am I drawn so much to surfing and riding waves? There are radio waves, microwaves…but ocean waves I can ride on. It’s trippy!!! AHHHHHH…..
No one goes and looks at a pencil for hours, but people go and see the Grand Canyon (literally, rocks) and stare for hours! What in the human person is being impacted? What inside us is so amazed by 90-foot waves, dolphins, seals, and clams don’t care.
I really believe nature is pointing to something beyond itself. You don’t need to name it God, but you have to agree something more is going on there. What the heck are zoo’s there for? We go and stare at animals. We like to “people watch”. There is something in the human person that really does desire truth, beauty, and goodness.
If anything, allow this reality to just let you enjoy each of those moments more, because we all want them. Thinking about these things is good for us! Surfing is a way for me to enjoy the nature that God made. Yeah, I could get hurt, drown, get eaten by a great white. You could say “well where is the beauty in that? Why did God make that evil stuff?” That is a whole other topic we can hit later.
I would say surfing is an opportunity to encounter the beauty of nature and the thrill of it that brings me closer to God. Not this impersonal force, but God the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. God is right there with me surfing, just as much as He is when I pray. So maybe allow yourself to be in awe of something that points you to the Infinite. You might be surprised what you find on the other side.